Gemini Springs to Sanford

November 20, 2008

The water level at Gemini Springs is evidence of this years hurricane season. Fay did quite a number on this part of Florida. For residents it was the rain that they will remember mostly, for many in Debary saw flooding and property damage of unprecedented levels.

Today my father, a friend, and myself decided to take a trip down to Gemini Springs for a quick paddle trip. We hoped to see how the Debary Bayou was holding up.  It had been almost a year since we dropped kayaks in at Gemini Springs.

Launching the kayaks.

Launching the kayaks.

Gemini Springs was one of my outdoor stomping grounds when I was in middle school.  Back in those days we would try our luck at fishing from the pier. We were ok fishermen. We packed tackle boxes in our backpacks and carried rods and reels on our mountain bikes. I remember catching a Bowfin on accident once. Most Floridians refer to this prehistoric fish as a mudfish. I can remember and older gentleman offering me a few dollars for that muddy fish. In his opinion they were good eating. I let the muddy fish go.

Gemini Springs Park

Gemini Springs Park

The waters of Gemini have not changed much since my friends and I were boys. Today instead of canoes my father, a good outdoor friend known by many as “Greyhound”, and myself find ourselves paddling 17′ touring kayaks. We are dressed with the best of gear and loaded with the coolest of paddling gadgets and gizmos. I am by no means bragging about the gear, instead I am reflecting back on my humble beginnings paddling aluminum rental canoes at this same park.

All is quiet as we say goodbye to the shoreline. The banks on this early morning show evidence of the recent hydro period. Various aquatic plants, many like water lettuce seem to be scattered about amongst the muddy bank. The water seems cloudy which is in complete contrast to the bright blue sky above.  My goal today is simply to enjoy the relaxation that the ‘fluidness’ of kayaking instills.

It is obvious from the start that this day is going to be one of those perfect outdoor days. As we paddle down a side canal leading to a distant lake we can see cyclists on the paved trail. Once on this lake we notice a number of osprey above us fishing, their masked eyes seem to be piercing through the surface of the water in search of prey. A few of the osprey make quick dives, but with little success these avian anglers  go unrewarded. At the same moment a few small birds chase their larger counterparts, others proceed with a diving motion followed by a shuffling of the feathers. The rapid action seems to be a way of staying warm on a cold November morning.

Onward we paddle. Now we pass by the fishing pier, this was where we originally launched our kayaks. As we pass a number of fishermen dip cane poles hoping to catch dinner. Others cast from the pier using spinning tackle.

The next destination on our paddling journey is what I have always referred to as the secret lake at Gemini. A small winding canal leads you there from the main spring run. In middle school we always thought this lake was a top secret fishing hole. The rectangular shape of the lake leads one to believe it is man made. The banks are elevated. It is located in close proximity to interstate four. The shoreline here is dotted with cabbage palms and the occasional live oak.

The secret lake at Gemini.

The secret lake at Gemini.

At an elevated sandy shoreline we stop to stretch our legs and to grab a snack. At this moment we are looking out over the lake. Walking is the best thing for a kayaker. Sitting in a kayak is often brutal on the body if you do not take frequent breaks. We’ve eaten lunch here before. It is a great spot to relax with the exception of the buzz that comes from the interstate. This site for some reason resembles the shell mounds found throughout Florida.  This mound was made by artificial means. At the surface the natural debris commonly found on shell mounds is replaced by a few glass beer bottles scattered about on the ground.

After a few minutes my dad starts to walk along a quasi-trail that seems to follow the shoreline.  The shoreline is like a small mountain ridge, the lake being a man made reservoir. This trail follows underneath a canopy of live oaks and cabbage palms. I start to follow behind my father and as I start to catch up to him I notice that he is busy pulling Caesar’s Weed. This invasive weed used to cover the trail in its entirety.  The recent high water levels have not been beneficial to this irritating weed. I too start gardening, picking the irritating weeds and setting them aside in a heap pile.  Any plant containing seeds we throw out into the lake.

We spend an hour or so resting amongst the oaks and palms before leaving the secret lake. Today we are the only visitors here.  Leaving the lake we continue back down the canal. Paddling this canal today requires little effort due to the high water levels. Depending on the season, passage by touring kayak is nearly impossible.  Sometimes the canal resembles a brown soup. During low water periods the narrow width of the canal can place paddlers within arm’s reach of giant gators. Gators on the upward facing bank have the potential of joining you in the cockpit of your kayak.

Leaving the canal we again join up with the slow moving spring run. From this point it is a short paddle to Lake Monroe.  Before arriving at Lake Monroe you must first paddle below the interstate bridge.  A number of homes and an apartment complex front the waterway here. Watermarks on the homes and the cypress trees in their backyards are evidence of the recent flooding.

It is always disappointing paddling under the interstate. Beer cans and stryofoam are the inhabitants of this place. Oil slicks often float on the water’s surface, while monofilament fishing line dangles from the surrounding vegetation. This setting is a reminder of just how ignorant and lazy some people are.

Kayaking Across Lake Monroe

Kayaking Across Lake Monroe

As we paddle out into Lake Monroe we begin to consider our options. My dad makes a suggestion of crossing the lake. He mentions that we could probably eat lunch in downtown Sanford. He points to some distant landmarks on the shoreline. We then steer our kayaks in the general direction of the distant landmarks. While crossing we encounter mild waves, the wind being at our backs.

We eventually land along a sandy shoreline. The park is here is temporarily closed because of the erosion caused by Fay.

Landing on the shoreline of downtown Sanford.

Landing on the shoreline of downtown Sanford.

Leaving the kayaks behind with my dad ‘Greyhound’ and I head into town to find some lunch.  Arriving on 1st Avenue we proceed a short distance along the sidewalk in search of lunch. On our left facing a fountain we stop into a small shop and pick up some sandwiches. As we carry the lunches back we talk about how it is funny that a downtown like the one here in Sanford can still survive in today’s world. It is nice to know that these type of places still exist. Everything here seems to be on the human scale. It is impossible to walk by the storefronts without feeling that a level of authenticity thrives here, something that cannot be said about the average shopping center in Florida.

Downtown Sanford

Downtown Sanford

We quickly eat our turkey sandwiches and before departing for our return voyage we are confronted by a couple. The couple approaches us to see where we’ve paddled from. They continue to ask us if we like our kayaks. They ask a handful of  other relevant kayaking questions. My dad continues with the small talk, mostly talking about various places to visit around the state. In the background the River Romance passes by, many of the passengers are seeking refuge inside the cabin probably trying to avoid the cool breeze. The couple says a quick thanks for the information and proceeds along the shoreline. We finally board our vessels and head out onto the big lake under an even bigger blue sky.

As we paddle back towards Gemini we are very content, for in this fluid moment our bellies are full and are spirits are high thanks to the experience of a perfect outdoor day.

Box Turtles-Gopher Tortoises

Box Turtle-Gopher Tortoise

Today I hiked every trail in Brooker Creek Preserve. It was a pleasant day. Passing through the pine flatwoods I stumbled across a small box turtle. He looked to be in his element amongst the  pine straw.

Later I came across a gopher tortoise. He was happily chewing on some grass. It is rare to see both in one day.

Weedon Island Nature Photos

November 10, 2008

The unique visitor center.

The unique visitor center.

Boardwalk hiking.

Boardwalk hiking.

Old Tampa Bay

Old Tampa Bay

The county says that Weedon Island Preserve due to its significant cultural and natural history is “A Place to Remember.” There are about 3,700 acres here which all lie in close proximity to the shores of Old Tampa Bay.

“If a man walks in the woods for the love of them half of each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer. But if he spends his days as a speculator, shearing off those woods and making the earth bald before her time, he is deemed an industrious and enterprising citizen.”

Henry David Thoreau, 1853

Today my girlfriend and I went nature loafing at Caladesi Island. On this day time was not relevant.

The ferry ride to Caladesi.

The ferry ride to Caladesi.

To start our trip we first had to catch a ferry ride from Honeymoon Island State Park. Honeymoon Island State Park is a great launching point for Caladesi. I have read that it is also possible to enter Caladesi from Clearwater Beach on foot. Some individuals are lucky enough to arrive on the sandy shores via kayak. The ride will cost you $10 per person. It’s a short ride, but entertaining enough and gets you to Caladesi swiftly.

As we arrived at the docks we noticed a handful of boats docked in the small port. We were on a boat with about ten other visitors. As we arrived we were trying to come up with a game plan. The beaches sounded tempting, but I was especially curious to check out the hiking trails. We ended up going towards the beach first.

Blue water.

Blue water.

The beach was nice. The first stretch of beach is dotted with blue rental umbrellas. This section of beach is close to the ranger station and it seems to be where people tend to gravitate towards. We started to walk down the beach hoping to avoid the majority of the other visitors. Well moments into our walk I would learn a quick lesson. I noticed the typical sunbathers, big guys with big bellies, ladies with leathered skin, and what would later unfold was very disturbing. As we walked my girlfriend gave a gasp and said something along the lines of “oh my goodness”. A topless lady and her husband proudly walked towards the ocean. The site of this topless lady was disturbing. I quickly learned why there is a law against public nudity.

My eyes being damaged, I  longed for the beautiful displays of nature. After our incident I quickly decided we should leave the beach and find a suitable location for a picnic. We found a nice location. The site we chose had a quiet picnic table shaded by Sabal Palms. Sabal Palms always remind me of Florida. As we ate we discussed the logistics of our hike. We basically decided to take a leisurely walk. We started on the trail after lunch. It was very sandy and scrubby. Florida scrub is beautiful. Do not let anyone tell you otherwise. We passed a number of sections that made me feel as if we were in desert. Prickly Pear cactus and Lupines were welcomed acquaintances. Eventually we found a large patch of sand. I said with certainty that a gopher tortoise would most likely be dwelling somewhere around this prime habitat. A large brown tortoise was present. He seemed content basking in the direct sunlight. He was by all means the king of this here sand patch.

King of the sandhill.

King of the sandhill.

We continued along the trail and at our next juncture decided to hike back to the beach. We stopped at a small wooden bridge. I show my girlfriend the different species of mangroves and for a while we took in the scenery of dark stained water, crisp green mangroves, and of course a fresh blue sky above.

Mangrove country.

Mangrove country.

Minutes later we get acquainted with some clumsy armadillos running around near the dunes. I accidentally spook one of these armored fellows; his quick reaction was to run full speed into the base of a tree. He then quickly ran in the complete opposite direction. I then decide to join my girl on the beach. We started down the beach heading south.

Beach hiking.

Beach hiking.

In the distance we can see skyscrapers, but before me was the calm gulf, the shades of blue of both the sky and water complimenting each other so finely. The best part of our day would involve our shell hunting. I would not call myself a “Sheller” by any means, but I enjoy the relaxed pace of this activity. My girlfriend starts finding a number of beautiful shells. We find a few sand dollars too. It’s a these times that you notice the absence of time. It was a truly wonderful experience. Living in the moment is one of the perks of spending a day in nature. We eventually stopped for a drink of water, with the realization that we have a long walk back to the ferry dock.

As we started our return hike I reflected back just how nice the beach here at Caledesi was. It’s for the most part a natural beach. Seeing functional dunes is something rare these days. The waters to me seem clearer than those found just south at Clearwater Beach. I am biased though, because I prefer the natural beach found here at Caladesi.

Above was the great blue, below was the sweet soil. Today was a good day. It was spent in good company and more importantly it was spent in nature. Days like the one I am describing are rare. It was such a good day I almost feel that I should brag. While most were inside staring at televisions and computers I was outside staring at a cloudless sky. Not a single cloud crowded the sky today.

Upper Tampa Bay Park

Upper Tampa Bay Park

Getting outdoors is typically my underlying goal. Today was no different. As I woke up there was the slightest chill in the air. I contemplated bringing a jacket but I decided to just wear my long sleeve wicking t-shirt. As I left the house I figured I would encounter some traffic on the way to Upper Tampa Bay Park. It was early, before 8am on a Friday. My drive was relatively short, approximately 8 miles or so.

Eagle Trail

Eagle Trail

A few weeks back I saw a small wooden sign with some simple graphics that looked unlike the standard park sign. You know the standard green or brown signs. This looked like it was for a preserve. I finally got around to checking this park out. I was pleasantly surprised. You see it fronts Tampa Bay, an area that is highly populated. The water quality of the bay has been seriously jeopardized according to many accounts and it is easy to understand considering that most of the bay is surrounded by development. This park figuratively is an island. It is an island of mangroves and pine trees in a ’sea’ of what has come to be the greater Tampa Bay region. The park itself is actually a peninsula of about 600 acres. It is a natural gem.

Woodstorks, Egrets, Herons

Woodstorks, Egrets, Herons

Man has of course been attracted to this region for thousands of years. Man’s close proximity makes good sense when you consider the abundance of shellfish in the bay. This rich estuary has significant biological diversity. It is a safe cradle for many species that call the sea home. The native people lived in harmony with this landscape for centuries. Large mounds of shell proudly display a once flourishing culture. The later arrival of Europeans in the 16th Century  would spell the end of their sustainable way of life.

View From Nature Center

View From Nature Center

As I arrive at the park I am surprised to see a few homes fronting Double Branch Road. This road gives you access to the park. I drive inside the park eager to find hiking trails. My research on the web tells me that trails do exist, but the mileage varies from site to site.

The first trail I arrive at is called the Bobcat Trail. It is a short trail that starts out  shaded by oaks and the understory is mostly saw palmetto. As I continue down the trail I start to see large openings behind the thick understory. I find a small bench a few feet off the trail. I stand on the bench and look out over an extensive marsh composed mostly of Sand Cord Grass. On the distant shore I notice an increasing density of Black Needle Rush. This was a clue that I was getting closer to the salt water.

After a few minutes I reach the outer fringe of mangroves. I proceed onto a small boardwalk. I stop and notice about 20 white wading birds. The majority were Woodstorks. There were a handful of Egrets and one lonely Great Blue Heron. I stand on the dock admiring the birds. They seem to be studying me too. The mangrove backdrop behind them and the tidal pool in the foreground made the perfect photo opportunity. The sun was still behind the trees, the lighting was perfect. After about five minutes of getting ‘Muired’ I hear the obnoxious sound of something motorized. About a minute later an older man driving an all terrain vehicle shows up. He is wearing an official park ranger hat so I figure he must be up to something constructive making all that racket. He drives up to me and says “hello”. I quickly respond with a quick… “How’s it going”? He quickly replies with a question. He asks, “have you seen an old man fishing?” He continues to tell me that there is an old man that really reels ‘em in out there on those salt flats. He tells me that he is one of those catch and release types. I ask him about kayaking here. He says it is great, but with great concern he warns me that most people end up getting lost. I mention that I am pretty experienced and in any case I only plan on hiking today. He proudly talks about the new signage they are adding to the canoe trail. My conversation continues for about 5 minutes or so. As our conversation ends he tells me about the nature center and how I should pick up a map there. I tell him thanks for the information, but he insists on driving me back to my truck. I try to explain that I can hike back, but he insists on taking me to the nature center. I board his vehicle and before I know it I have a park map. Before he leaves he tells me I should come back around Christmas for the annual hayrides they have at the park. Earlier while driving on the access road I noticed the various Christmas decorations. I guess it is never to early to get ready for a hayride.

I continue to hike the short trail near the nature center. The trail leads me to another boardwalk that sneaks up next to the mangroves. This trail loops back to the visitor center. I stop in to check out the facility and to see if I can get information on other local parks. I walk in and the lights are off. I figure this could maybe be due to conserving energy or budget cuts, but later learn that the center was just opening for the day. I talk to the park ranger for a while in the nature center. We talk mostly about the park. He tells me how much he appreciates it being where it is. We talk about how this place is not what it used to be. This type of conversation always gets my attention. He talked about the lack of green space in Hillsborough County. We carry on a conversation for quite a while. Our conversation ranges from generic nature topics to encounters with bears in Florida. The interesting thing I took from the conversation was the topic of what makes a true environmentalist. Interestingly, he mentions that sometimes he does not feel comfortable being lumped into a category that can often include anything from tree huggers to fishermen. He mentions that he believes fishermen and hunters are the true environmentalists. I can’t say I agree completely. I give it some thought and figure that the term in recent years has been tied to the green movement and I sometimes do not know what to consider myself. Yeah I love the earth, but I look at things differently than say a crazy person at Greenpeace, yet I do not agree with the corporate interests who seek to destroy the environment either. I guess in general terms I would say that my views match up more with Muir.

John Chestnut Park

John Chestnut Park

After leaving Upper Tampa Bay Park I proceeded towards Pinellas County’s John Chestnut Park. This park is also a hidden gem. This park is more of a multiuse park. It has picnic benches and a boat ramp with access to Lake Tarpon. Near the boat ramp I followed the boardwalk to the observation tower. The tower gives you a great view of the surrounding landscape. In the distance you can see deciduous bald cypress trees changing color. While the display is not comparable to what you may see in the Carolina’s, the majestic cypress trees hold their own in this swampy landscape that meets Lake Tarpon. I proceed further down the boardwalk fronting the lake and I am surprised to see deer. A herd of about 10 were feeding on shoots of grass coming from the muddy floor of the bald cypress swamp. They seemed content with standing in a few inches of rich organic soil, the grass seemed very fresh. I continued down the boardwalk and eventually ended up back in the parking lot. I continued to the opposite side of the park to see if any natural wonders were waiting. I came across a number of birders. I asked one birder if he was having any luck. He said the birds were in hiding today. As the trail ended I ran into an older man with a sophisticated camera. He said that being retired is great if you have a passion. His passion was being outdoors taking nature photos. We talked for a while. I told him about a pair of  fly catchers I saw back near the boardwalk. We discussed their ‘twitchy’ behavior. They tend to flap their wings knocking insects from leaves. This behavior is fun to watch. His knowledge of local fauna impressed me. After our conversation I proceeded to head back to my truck. The sky was still blue, the sun was high, and it was another day well spent.

Lake Tarpon

Lake Tarpon