I start with the intentions of paddling around Honeymoon Island. I arrived on a low tide. I scratch the bottom of my kayak along the rocky shore of the Dunedin Causeway. The causeway extends out to Honeymoon Island State Park. On this frigid February morning there are few people walking along the causeway. My intention for starting early is to avoid the wind. Leaving at around 7 a.m. I am suprised by the light wind that is fluttering the surface of the water. I stop though to test the wind and it hardly moves my kayak in the opposite direction.
Scharrer Residence
Behind me is the causeway, beyond the causeway is Caladesi. To my west is Honeymoon. To the North is Anclote. I am suprised by the building wind. Increasing winds make me give second thought to venturing out into the gulf. The gulf will be reached eventually. I stop on a beach to stretch my legs and as I arrive on shore a small wave splashes me. My waterproof socks minimize the bulk of the wave, but some water works its way to my toes.
As I paddle…this land is a land of osprey. Snags off in the distance remind me of earlier hikes where osprey are visible to hikers. They are plentiful here. A pair of bald eagles are currently residing on the island. An osprey hovers in place before diving down to snag a plump mullet. Another osprey lands in the water and seems to be struggling with a giant fish. The bird makes repeated attempts, but the fish is too heavy. Eventually the osprey leaves with lunch. A spoonbill flies in front of the mangroves, his pink is contrasted against dark green. Cormorants are plentiful. Birds are everywhere. Osprey continue to dive into the cold water. Herons and egrets are plentiful too. I am currently on the grass flats. The water here is deep enough for the kayak to stay afloat.
I eventually pass the white beaches and arrive in view of the gulf. There seems to be some white chop. I figure the Necky Dolphin has seen worse so I tighten the life jacket and secure my gear and head for the open sea. Out past the chop created by the shallow sand bars I feel some sort of relief. I notice a few people walking on the beach. They are bundled up in layers as if respecting the cold. I keep my attention now to the growing swells.
A park ranger drives a truck down the beach. Seagulls flutter out of the way. I notice that the swells are making me seasick. I stop and for a moment I pretend that I am surrounded by a sea of mountains. The waves are flowing mountains, beautiful yet they are making me sick. The current is pushing me towards my destination. A dolphin surfaces a few times off the bow. Caladesi Island is now making its presence known. The swells keep rolling in. I cannot remember the last time I got seasick. I see a beach covered with seaweed and decide to cook lunch there.
The sandy beach makes an ideal picnic area. I set up my stove and drag my stuff from the kayak. Sitting here in the bright sun under a blue sky I feel like I am on quite the adventure. I notice a fisherman off in the distance. I neatly set my gear out and consider the next leg of my trip. I light the stove and wait for the water to boil. The wind has little impact on the small MSR stove. The fisherman starts towards me. He makes a greeting and I notice his German accent. He speaks fine English and is outfitted with nice gear.
We quickly strike up a conversation. He explains that he is German, but has lived Alaska for a number of years. He describes the beauty of Alaska in great detail. We have much in common. He mentions how people like us have a common language. He speaks in ecology and biodiversity.With sadness he talks about how climate change is impacting Alaska. He fears for the native people. He says the native people of all countries are in trouble. He says this of Alaska…”land falling into the sea, melting glaciers, and decreasing fish stocks.” He concludes that Alaska will be ruined in 2o years. He is on his way to Germany in a few days. He is on his way to Germany to talk with school children about Alaska nature and racism issues concerning native people. He seems to be one of those unique individuals you meet along the road of life.
We exchange stories and information pertaining to nature and the love of travel. When you meet a like-minded person you always feel as if there is so much knowledge to be shared. We say happy trails and make our separate ways.
Stuff
I paddle Caladesi’s interior canoe trail for the remainder of the day. It is silent and calming inside these mangrove tunnels. Life is good here. Towards the end I leave the kayak and head ashore to visit the ruins of the Scharrer residence. Myrtle wrote Yesteryear I lived In Paradise. Her book is a story about her life on the island.
Heading back to the truck I see Dunedin to the east. Boaters are now making their presence known. Pelicans still bob happily in the shallow waters.
